Well done man so far, Id shake your hand for your attention to detail! Have a look here for odd bits and pieces you might need... http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/index.asp I might be doing this very conversion soon. How do the engine mounts work out? Would I need to change the front subframe or do any welding for it?
Ya have PM mate. Thanks for the link also... never seen the site before, looks good Mainly did boring stuff this weekend... Labelled up the wiring so I have an 'appropriate' feed for each of the relative engine wiring. Have tried as much as possible to keep it up in line with what it was supposed as per factory to avoid confusion. Went well, just a few feeds I may need to wire up to an either additional fusebox or other feeds coming directly from the fusebox. Like the idea of additional fusebox because will have a few spare feeds for other things then Labelled up the rest of the existing wiring in the mk2 bay... sorting it and getting it ready to be routed and extended. Also drilled some test holes in the floor pan to the chassis rails ready for the wiring. Need some big old drill bits to make a decent sized holes though. Got my wishbones back as well... The rest of the stuff they still have because the compressor broke or some ****e... so hopefully get those back Tuesday. I'm just SO THANK FUL the guy DIDN'T paint the bloody bush holes like he has done on everything else I've asked him not to. That **** is a NIGHTMARE to remove!! Also fitted the powerflex bushes to wishbones. Bit ****ed off thou cos I split one with a mega school boy error I pressed it in the wrong way round because I was looking at the direction of the ball joint screws. Which at the time I didn't realize they were both the same way up - so when I went to fit it the spacer washer on the big bush was on the bottom of the arm, facing down... the wrong way round When I pressed it out again, it split a little away from the washer and bent the actual washer to! Needless to say I pressed it back in for the meantime until I can get a replacement bush. ANNOYING none the less. Bearings pressed out. Wiring... Wishbones fitted. After tapping the bush back into place... going to see how it is. Seems like a needless expense if I can get away with it? Drivers side hole into the floor pan and chassis rail. The sound proofing was an arsehole to move. See the light Coated. These were some pictures from the other week. I got the bushes fitted on the front subframe. Got the subframes back all nice and powder coated. Also few pictures of the interior sound proofing. Soundproofing Cleaned up rack fitted bush.. Fitted front subframe bushes. All done.
Another boring update... just so I can keep on top of it though. Last 2 Saturdays I've been doing more wiring. After stupidly missing the nicely disguised bung on the drivers side to the chassis leg I'm going to have to weld up the 2 holes I drilled initially. However it was a bit more noticeable on the nearside as the bung was clearly shaped! Still, small set back & saves me buying circular hole cutting tools Got my stub axles & wheel hubs back to, along with the front subframe inserts. They were actually masked off thank god. Will hopefully press the bearings in tomorrow as I'm working Sunday... what's that all about :angry: The wiring is all sorted & organised. Quite happy! I've removed any unnecessary wiring, so headlamp washers, dipped beam resistor etc. Re-routed a lot of the loom so that it comes out on the correct side of the car instead of criss crossing everywhere. I've also re-wired in the connectors for the indicators & the fog lamps to the inside as before it was near the coolant tank reservoir & wouldn't of worked very well when coming to running the indicator looms & fog lamps through the chassis legs, indicators largely due to the fact the wiring goes out to the indicators on the wings, so would have looked very messy. Also have extended the wiring for the washer pump out into the boot & re-routed the wiper motor wiring. So all that needs doing now is extending the wiring & then connecting it all up ... have taken all the OD's I'll need of the wiring & relative heat shrink sizes. Also going to order about 6-7 meters of battery cable, terminals, ring connectors, negative cable as battery is going in the boot. Connectors that needed extending & re-routing... PITA. Organised & seperated. Each leg & I've yet to decide where I'm going to run the engine loom though.............. Inside stuff.... S'all for now.
alright bud Just thought id say be carefull where you use heat shrink....If you have it in an area of too much heat it will keep shrinking until it melts off I think some kind of silicone stuff is available for that though
Minor update to keep the thread alive :wub: Moved into the unit - main stuffs in there still got a load to bring over, crazy how much poop I had crammed in that tiny garage! Fitted the bearings & stub axles back to the car to get it moving... the N/S/F bearing is absolutely hanging with play, I'm trying to convince myself it will tighten up with pre-load off the drive shaft thou I think the bearing's probably wrong. All together. New ball joints fitted to. The unit Bit more space! Have the week off work & planned to get all the wiring finished however the company I bought all the wiring off cocked my order up and sent me the wrong stuff :angry: Sods law really! Managed to get one side done Saturday anyway The wiring products I ordered. Instead of the 10 metres of PVC cable sleeving I got 10 metres of heatshrink (19mm) :mellow: Fair play to Autosparks though, they are sending the rest out free of charge & letting me keep the heatshrink B) Uprated the lighting wiring loom. Both dipped beam & high beam wires uprated. This is the offside chassis leg. Lots of removed wiring, going for a common earth point also. Nightmare trying to push it all through! Finished result... Thought I had a picture of it in the car to, but obviously not!
Second hand mate for about 150 with new discs... old pads. Will be re-building them soon & getting them all cleaned up.
Nothing massive to be honest, I've had my head down and getting on with the wiring - almost done Haven't been spending much time on it recently either, need to get back in the swing! Lots of double checking & writing things down, if there ever comes a day when I need to fault find using a wiring diagram I'm trying to note down as much as possible so I can do it with some ease. Managed to wire up possibly the most important connector, the ECU power, fuel pump relay earth & sensor power wires Shortened & moved the foglamp X connector. Was originally located somewhere miles away in the engine bay. In order for me to run the feed wires for the fog lamps down the legs & make it easier the connectors now right by the fusebox. Extended the washer pump wiring... for the front washer pump, which will be going in the back. Decided to use convulated tubing as thought it a bit more hard wearing, less porous and harder resisting to abrasion. This was the Offside chassis leg routed. This is Nearside chassis leg. Had to redo it as there was a few more wires that needed extending and routed through. These were the horn wires, temp sensor & fog lamp wire. However all the wiring through the chassis legs is complete, it's just a case of doing a test fit of the slam panel & bumper to trim & route the wiring properly. Brake & clutch switch loom spliced in, taped up into a mini loom. Wires fed through at last Basically all I have left is the T14 pin plug that I need to de-pin and remove a few more wires. Although for some reason the pins are an absolute ******* to remove & I'm yet to remove any of those stupid tiny dickhair pins for some reason, reckon i've racked up about 45 minutes accumulative attempting to remove the bloody things... won't come out for some reason! May have to cut the plug up & buy a new one!!! Hoping to get rid of a lot though as I'm not using the original S3 cluster so won't need a lot of the sensor feeds to the cluster With a bit of luck hopefully I can have all the wiring connected to the fusebox, then it's just a case of finding a hidden route to run the engine bay wiring.... any ideas would be welcome as the bay is going to be smoothed & flushed Few random pictures... Tubing run from the inside... Just about to thread the nearside wiring through the legs... the wiring next to it is all engine wiring... Lovely soldering Heatshrink... then it's taped up after. Ya... that's it for now, nothing exciting I know
I've been waiting to update for a while now, figured I'd try update with something significant - although it doesn't look like much it's taken a lot of faffing about to get all right! This is how it all started... Same each side. Loads of uneven lengthened wires from extending the looms through the legs First step was to route the wires to the lights so they were hidden, yet not flapping about chaffing. Made one of the holes in the slam panel bigger each side to run the tubing up into the area behind the lights. All done. Can't see it behind the grill + it fits From there adjusted the rest of the wire lengths by trial fitting the grill & bumper a few times. Taped up the looms with electrical fabric tape, then standard (water proof) electrical tape. Used some convulated tubing on top of some of the areas for better fitment & extra security to chaffing. Sorted the main earth out for each leg there after. Didn't want to have to run all the earth wires back to the fusebox.. its an old fashioned way of doing things, it's extra weight & meant extra hassle of running more wires through already partially cramped tubing. Adjusted & taped. Crimping tool, bought last week at the bargain price of 25! All wires crimped into the terminal, heatshrinked. Soldered the end to stop any poop getting in the end of the connection & keep the wires from moving. Fitting location... Cleaned up the earth point, removed any paint, bit of corrosion. Greased to prevent to corrosion. Checked continuity to ground with the probe. OK. Fitted. Applied a feed to the headlamp, with the earth connected. All works fine All finished. All in all a while taken to get it all in the right place! Offside Nearside Finished completely!!!!! The wires running into the car. Should be enough soundproofing on the floor pan for them to not be noticeable via some kink in the carpet. Hopefully going to run these engine wires through this hole, on the basis they won't be seen. However this is yet to be known until the engines fitted in place. Cheers!
Like the ideas of routing the wires in the chassis legs Check the Flange hasn`t worn where it presses into the middle of the bearing. I had the same problem, the centre part was moving around in the inner race of the bearing. The flange had been reused a few times and was slightly worn, allowing movement. A new flange sorted it
Will have to check.. I've never seen anything like it & I hate doing bearings on the whole, we have a history I'm kind of hoping they'll tighten up when the drive shafts are in anyhow but it's a long way until they're fitted. An Update anyway... first in a while As well as being an update it's a slight informal how to on how to fit a hydro pedal box to a mk2 I ended up taking so many pictures I may as well turn it into a 'how to' as it's picture intensive enough for someone to get an idea of what they need to do in order to fit it anyway. It's a b*tch of job, not enjoying it at allllll Anyway.. I've got most the lower dash out anyway, carpets, instrument cluster and the top piece of trim that holds all the switches removed from the car. Along with removing the the old pedal box, the Steering column needs to be removed in order to get it out. The bolts holding it on near the steering wheel are shear bolts & need to be drilled.. it's messy. Steering column removed the lazy way Old clutch cable operated pedal box (left) vs corrado hydraulic pedal box (right). Notice the yellow boxes around the brackets on the top. They are different, this is the bracket that needs to be cut off, moved over & re-welded. More on that later... Back end of the pedal boxes. Unmolested bulkhead... Test fit the corrado pedal box. Note the yellow boxes again. The bracket at the moment doesn't line up with the hole it's supposed to (small yellow box) hence reason for cutting and moving. A better picture of how far off it is.... Note the marking of the clutch master cylinder location and the gap between the bulkhead & actual pedal box. Helpful hole... Reference for bashing! Inside after lots of heat & beating the bulk head. It's pretty flat, just need to smack the edges in a little more - not quite finished. Outside after a beating. Good job it's going for paint After I cut the bracket off at the welds. Takes longer than it should of done, speaking to a few people they just cut it off where it's most accessible. After all that.. just need to widen the actual master cylinder hole & drill out the two holes either side. Weld the bracket back on. Filler & paint up where the beating has taken place on the bulkhead
So although these updates are a little oldish... a few days -- I've been kicked out of my rather large & cushy unit so spent the last few days ****ing about knocking on farmers doors asking for space & moving me and my mates **** to his nan's garage! Not a fun job although I'm hoping we've managed to secure another place for the start of next year, although MUCH smaller. Still annoyed though as I had big plans to get a lot of work done over this period of time off I have (3 weeks) and haven't really got much done at all thanks to this cock of a landlord kicking us out! Anywho...... This is an absolute poopty job I've gotta add. I underestimated how big the job was in the terms of getting it to fit, among the forum hearsay that it's an bolt in fitment - it really ent! I didn't spend long on it today as it was freezing but ALL that is left now is cutting the hole in the bulkhead - I was going to use a combination of jig saw, hack blades & drills as I didn't want to spend any more money on tools this month, especially before Xmas... Although looks like I'm going to be buying a hole saw set tomorrow to finish the job off First thing I did today was test fit the fusebox holder with the pedal box in. It doesn't fit in there, at all. The corrado pedal box invades about 2-3 inches of space that normally is occupied by the fusebox holder. It also prevents the fusebox holder from moving forward so line up with the stud nearest the pedal box. These pictures aren't very good, but you get the idea... Where the fusebox fouls on the pedal box I'm not sure what others have done in this situation but I didn't fancy the idea of cutting into the pedal box due to the fact, it's an important component that needs as much structural support/strength as possible - especially this area of the pedal box as the bracket that holds it on (the modified one) when it isn't fitted makes the pedal box VERY flimsy. On this basis I didn't want to take any metal away from the area. This is what I did anyway... Cut some slits into the fusebox holder. It doesn't need much support at all... it's only held on by 3 plastic nuts and when the fusebox is fitted, it has added support anyway and is pretty solid The first cuts... Test fit the fusebox. Nice and sturdy despite a few big chunks missing! Pictures of cuts in situ... Close up's of the cuts... Requested The long slit allows the fusebox holder to go almost into complete position and line up with the stud. The V shaped cut is allow the fusebox to not 'lean' on the pedal box and line up correctly on the vertical. I don't want knocking either so made sure they don't touch at all. My ONLY gripe with fitting the fuse box holder this way is that it doesn't allow the holder to sit up completely flush with the top of the bulkhead because the pedal box acts as a roof due to the 'slit' fitment of it (see the above pictures). However it's adequate and is only a mm off balance, you can still get the nut on so I'm content Welded the bracket on in situ... Tacked it then took it off and laid a big slug on either side of it. I can't weld... I admit that Don't think I'll get this finished to soon obviously as I can't actually work on the car until we move into the new place in the new year... Will do a small update when the clutch master cylinder's fitted anyhow. Going to paint the bare metal areas on the pedal box & fusebox to. Car's sat in an empty barn at the moment...
Also wanted to ask - if anyone had any ideas, or solutions to mounting the DBW pedal to the the car somehow....? It sits REALLY far away from the bulkhead (doesn't look like it), at a guesstimate about 7-9 inches. I can imagine it needing some sort of custom made box that's welded to the bulkhead extending out flat enough to mount the pedal. Although it still needs to be mounted at a similar height & angle as the other pedals... I don't really do fabrication so it's not going to be something I'm going to attempt but would like to see what others have done?
This is mine, I've fitted all three Mk4/Seat Leon pedals to my Mk2 20vt. I used a cut section of the Mk4/Seat Leon bulkhead fastened to the inside of the Mk2 bulkhead and then lowered the servo to give correct pedal positions. Try and get a bulk head from a scrap yard, gas pedal possition is perfect.
Like this idea mate If I'd have known the hassle I was going to go through buying & fitting the pedal box, then still having to worry about the bloody accelerator pedal I probably would of gone this way! Unfortunately though I haven't so going to have to find a way of mounting it using what's already there. Thanks for the suggestion though Cheers Lee
Thanks, seen a lot of the hydro pedal boxed you've used in conversions but 99% of them use a cable operated throttle body and the std gas pedal. Can't you fab up or get fabbed up a box section/bracket with mounting studs on it to sit the pedal on in line with the brake pedal?? or even just the gas pedal mount off the mk4 bulkhead. Good luck with it. PAB
You can get a Golf Mk5 floor hinged pedal which is easy to fit, and a VW cable conversion for a Hydro box.
