So got my gearbox and shift mechanism parts today. Bit of a nightmare, would expect nothing less to be honest! Nightmare being the mix up of parts.... I've just got back and tried to make sense of it on ETKA but don't really understand as some the parts need cleaning for the part numbers to be seen... not doing that now. The situation being: The gearbox is a 02A CTN box (02A 301 107 B - doesn't show up on my ETKA either) The HAND shifter mechanism is an 02J one from a diesel Mk4 - it has no part # that I can see on it. The shift cables are attached to the hand shift mech and have the part numbers 1J0 711 266 B & 1J0 711 265 B (show it's from an early MK4 1998-2001) Now the confusing bit... I've got a selector tower from a Mk4 02J (paid extra!!) & then 02A selector tower that's already on the 02A CTN box. My assumption was I needed the 02J selector tower so that the 02J cables would fit... this isn't the case though as they are different, yet the cables DO FIT on the 02A CTN tower??!! Whilst it isn't a massive problem in itself, as it does fit... I've just paid 75 for this 02J selector tower that I now don't really need? I haven't got the part #s off either of the selector towers as I can't see them. Only conclusion I can come is that the parts fit 1. Because they're both diesels. 2. The early mk4 shift cables have 02A ends. Any insight? Few pictures of the selector tower and box etc... Hand tower Gearbox.. with cables attached. 02J selector tower is leaning on it. Poor picture of the code Cables connected to 02A tower. 02J selector tower.
top work !!! i am also doing a bam mk2 conversion and mine now starts, and bought the same oil return pipe but mine is longer and i had to run it the other side of the driveshaft when the engine was fitted to the car , i checked ekta and got the bolt lengths but with the brackets on that aftermarket pipe being wider i decided to run some zinc plated Allen bolts 5mm longer that vag items for the sump due to it being alloy , has worked fine the holes are nearly 20mm deep i also had to do exactly the same mods with a angle grinder to the fusebox holder i was wondering if my car was bent of something having not seen anyone one with the same problem, glad its the same , my fusebox fits fine , but not got the dash back in yet to know if any other problems will occur A mate has put a dbw throttle in his mk2 and welded it in , its not quite in the correct place to be fair but works ! I used a mk4 style shifter and used the ones that has the large adjusters on , to get the balljoints to fit you can use those small ball joints as found on powerlifters or the TSR ball joint kit ( they are perfect ) and bolt onto the o2A box ****fer parts , can do you a pic if needed to make a o2A tower work on a 02J shifter See these end parts this is what you need http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/Images/shiftkit_62.jpg Found a place selling them an can get the size you need tomoz when out my workshop http://www.springfix.co.uk/products/link-bal-ball-and-socket-joints-threaded-ball-studs.htm
Cheers Duff. In the same boat on the fusebox holder... No-one had mentioned it Think the dash will be OK, sit's pretty much in the place it always has done. Turns out I've got an EARLY type Mk4 hand shifter + cables, as they have the same ends as 02A components - hence the fitting fitment. Unless there is some DRASTIC differences between early & late components I think I'm just going to stick with what fits as it's costing me a bloody fortune in parts that I don't need! Does anyone know if the later stuff is better than the early + differences & reasons why?
Start of regular updates again ! The last place was to small, so we've moved yet again. Place is a lot bigger enough to house the two cars comfortably & is closer to home so ideal! Moved a bit of stuff over & started to sort out the cosmetics of the gearbox. Took off the brackets, selector tower etc. Wire brushed the whole thing back to shiny metal & degreased it. Masked everything up & gave it a few coats of paint B) As it was when purchased. Did a few hours of this the other weekend, finished off the crappy tight areas today. Almost finished after complete wire wheel. First coat of paint. 4th & final coat. Really happy with the end result, it looks really smooth & clean, had my doubts but could even be mistaken for powder coat to be honest B) Here's a few of the new unit... [/quote] Few of the old Also cut the clutch master cylinder hole in the bulk head. Horrendus paint as it's some 10 year old wood primer or something... only thing I had around as old unit was damp & had already started to surface rust the bare metal on the bulkhead!
Good to be working again... needed to regain some motivation to be honest! Paint is just Hammerite metal paint 'smooth silver' it's called.
Update! I've worked my nutsack off this weekend, worked from 11-9pm each night! It's a boring update to be fair though... I removed the Clifford 300 alarm. Was fitted back in 1999/2000 or something so it's getting on a bit now. It worked fine, just had a massive box attached to the bulkhead & was overly complicated to use (stupid buttons on the dash switch). Will probably get a Toad or something with some decent features on next. Along with removing the alarm I also re-wired all the circuits back to factory! Anyone interested in this alarm? I labelled the majority on removal so shouldn't take much to fit. Sanded down the servo from where I knocked it over last week & re-sprayed it. Came out OK, will need some wet fine sanding though because the unit doesn't seem to be the best place to paint, lots of dust & poop in the paint. You can see it in the picture its that bad! I came Sunday & it's been so long I actually physically worked on the car (other than painting, moving poop around) - Kinda forgot where I'm at. Seem to have a a lot of unfinished jobs looming around as well so I decided to just try & focus on one area & get it finished before moving onto something else - hence the lack of update I've tried to finish off the wiring! After ripping out the alarm, sorting that - I took the dash out. This let me run the extra bits of loom up into the scuttle area. The looms I've run up there are: Wiper loom, Coolant low level sensor, brake fluid low level sensor, heated washer loom was up there already & I've had to extend the indicator loom that power/earth the side indicators as well, considering the rest of the indicator loom now runs through the chassis legs! So spent a while extending all that crap (indicator loom took lots of extending) & trying to run it where the rest of the loom runs inside the car/behind the dash/within those foam loom guides. Used a piece of convulated tubing and cut up a grommet + added tape to secure it all. It's not quite finished, need to add some tubing to the wires running in the scuttle area also. After that, mocked up the ECU position. This has been bugging me for a while as initially I was going to have it in the standard Mk2 position (under the scuttle) & to accommodate that, have already extended the looms to run up there :rolleyes: The new position in my opinion is a much more suited place, it's completely out of the way and will be dry & clean. The looms don't have to run as far, it leaves a enough space around the back (see picture) for the coloured 'X' connectors to sit also & doesn't clutter the scuttle area with excessive wiring that's also exposed to water + poop. The position being on the back of the centre console. With the ECU in place I can now cut down the wiring to suit. However need to re-fit the dash, pedal box, steering column etc so I know exactly where it's all running. Problem being I want to weld up the bulkhead now.....
Really nice work mate. Any updates available? Been folowing thread with great interest, im planning a similar conversion myself. You just cant buy information like this. Looking forward to further updates. Really well done mate
Thanks mate... small update for you Painted the under side of the gearbox as been putting it off for a while... Pulled the heater box out & cleaned all the tar crap off the bulkhead - mega *****ty job. This is all done in preparation for paint also. Engine bay, all the taped holes/brackets etc are to flushed out Then cleaned the offside of the engine bay, removing all the wax and cleaning it up. At that point in time, I was still deciding whether to weld up & smooth all the holes etc myself & have a body shop finish off the work OR have them do the whole job lot. I've decided now to let the body shop complete all the work due to issues with guarantee & my previous unhappy experiences with body shops, I want it spot on with no excuses! Bought a welder in preparation for that body work job, although now decided against it... handy to have. Spent a lot of time talking to body shops getting quotes etc. It's either going to TUK customs, True paint works or PF Autos if anyone has any experiences with them, feel free to chip in! Since then I've been hoarding & buying parts, here's the list of accumulated bits now: Got some big 300amp cable for the battery relocation as well, loads of electrical terminals so I can plug in all the extra wires into the fusebox, got hold of a fusebox to fuse wires that aren't fused via the CE2 box. Forge Split R Polished throttle body Rear polybush engine mount insert (saves buying a complete new hardened mount, yet stiffens up the standard one) G60 solid rubber transmission mount. Finally got a complete 02J shifter set up after doing a swap with a fella on the forum. Have a spare 02A/02J (same as 02A) selector tower & shift cables also now! Eibach anti roll bars K04 samco silicone turbo inlet pipe (Black) At the moment I'm still buying parts, I've got a ridiculous list ready to walk into VW with, although I'm just trying to get it all done in one foul swoop cos I hate the place Once all the parts have been acquired I need to test fit the engine & then send it off to a body shop!
Minor update, alas - it's been almost 2 months since the last & still nothing major to show for it Fitted some connectors for the lights, been looking for ages, these are still over-sized but will do the job, slotted back into the plug, too. Got hold of an additional fusebox to use a few feeds for the engine also. Painted the selector tower, fitted to the box. More parts... This little lot cost me the best part of 320 - needless to say I had a small heart attack when they told me that was the bill, without quoting me before hand!!! Amoung the parts... Heater matrix (these things are like 130?!!!) ARB drop links (G60 for the eibach roll bars) 50! Splash shields for the stub axles A lightned flywheel Various bolts for joining of the engine/trans, flywheel, clutch pressure plate etc etc Release arm, ball pin/clip Passat TDI rear engine mount (40) etc Fitted the Forge split R.. Then yesterday had a crack at fitting this 02J hand selector mechanism. Ripped out the old mounting brackets - literally, hack saw & lots of bending After, I will eventually drill out the spot welds & give it all a lick of paint. Cut the lugs off the back, so it can fit the hole properly. Few minor removal cuts at the top to let the shifter seat flat & against the membrane. & Drilled a 6.5mm hole at the front of the mechanism to secure it. Finish off with 7mm hole. It's really secure with just these 2 bolts holding it in, however thought it needed something at the back to be 100%. This bracket took bloody ages to make I'm desperate @ metal work, still it'll do the job, just need to give some paint & weld it into place... My ONLY concern about mounting it this way is the cables are bending downwards on the tunnel, as its sat higher than it should be. This was at the start, before it was fully pushed up, note the cables are already hitting the top of the tunnel, when it's fully secured, the cables bend into it & down. If it works, it won't be a problem, other wise may have to make some sort of template to sit around the top to lower the whole thing down about 2-3cms - we'll see!
Really good build so far mate, enjoying reading it! I mounted my gear shifter more or less exactly the same way you have, double check that the centre console will sit down properly over the shifter, as mine sits too high and needs lowering
Hey Classy, Ive cought up to you mate with my build I mounted my shifter tower similarly to you. except I kept it back further and drill 4 new holes altogether. I too had the same worry bout the cables- just one really...I got a square of .5mm sheet aluminium and shaped it a little...them rivited it to the top of the tunnel. hope that makes sense. Just to act as a skid over that ridge. Oh- I also hit it a few thumps with the hammer first to flatten it out a bit Have you mounted the engine yet? I have three Vibra mounts and even with that diesel rear bracket, Im very close to the MC.only got about 5mm space with the cover off! I may have it sorted though...the rear mount was turned the wrong way and if I use a corrado MC...the one that came with the servo/pedal box setup I bought, it should give me the breathing space! Keep up the progress mate!!
Overdue update here... Not a lot going on still! Fitted a sachs vr6 clutch kit & the flywheel. Mounted the box to the engine. Powder coated parts...rear engine mount, front engine mount, shifter cable bracket & gearbox brackets. Poly insert into the new rear engine mount. Gearbox brackets fitted, rear engine mount & trans mount all in. Test fitted engine... partially. Bought sandwich plate for the oil sensors, plan to have enough ports for the standard sensors & after market. My current issue, front mount seems to be a mile out when bolted up to the rear mount & trans. If anyone can shed any light, it would be much appreciated!!!!! PAS pump is to close to the subframe, assuming because the mount doesn't line up... another 'issue. In but just resting on the front mount [:@]
Yeah, I lost some serious motivation with this build. Money was the main problem but I'm qualified & I've moved dealerships now so got some inspiration back.. sort of! I have an issue with the engine mounting, but nothing to do with the master cylinder. I can't even get the thing to line up! The easy bit! I've seen ford focus M/C's used as well as the ibiza ones used. They are stubby/shorter so help with that issue, however I've got no part numbers or anything to be any further help. Are you using the passat diesel rear bracket? Thanks for that mat-mk3... although It's a bit late as I've ripped all the mk2 housing brackets out & thrown it. Hopefully shouldnt have any problems as is now...
