oh aye,its for running webbers,feckinell could i give you a shout on the comp gauge and t light tommorow if i dont sort anything m8? i feel like crying man,i think im having a nervous break down neil.
What does your AFR read when the fault is happening? if it reads lean then it`s more than likely a fuel startvation problem. You`ve re-fitted the G60 recently, are you sure you`ve not knocked any wiring on the way in or left a clamp loose?
ahh,i never looked at the afr while it happened keith ill check that out! cheers. all the wiring/clamps/hoses are definately ok. im just browsing the rado forum,where the wearing out of woodruff keys is mentioned on crank pullies? ive heard of the crank bolt shearing before,does the g60 have a woodruff on the crank pully? could this be my problem? it does seem to run hot,not on the temp gauge but in the bay. cheers,neil. Edited by: riley
more info here... if my crank pully has slipped round because the woodruff key has worn or dissapeared would this give these syptoms? will it show it up with a timing light? do i want 6 deg btdc with the bts disconnected? neil.
ok,i think the bottom cambelt pully has a notch that slides into the crankshaft (sort of like a woodruff key) ive just read that if the crank bolt is ready to shear off that the looseness can cause the notch to wear,and knock the timing out? do you think im barking up the wrong tree here? what should i check first? get a timing light on it and? look for what etc? ive got headache thinking about it now,need sleep. neil.
im thinking the backfiring noise in the inlet manifold/isv is the fuel mixture igniting in there? does that sound about right or am i talking crap?
Normally if you get backfiring into the inlet it`s either lean mixture or valve issues (poss timing), if you set the crank to tdc on number 1 cylinder and then chech where the cam is, should be timed up correctly. It might be worth removing the crank pulley, just to be sure if nothing else, make sure you fit a new bolt though. Could well be a valve timing issue if you can`t find anything else wrong. To get into basic settings, warm the car up to normall temp (oil above 80c), pull the blue cts connector with the car running and blip the throttle to 3k rmp 3 times, hold the idle at between 2k 2.5k (I used 2200rpm) and make sure the flywheel shows the timing marker with the strobe (that`s 6dbtdc @ 2200 rpm). You may just be able to pull the cts sensor time it (still at 2200), but I always did the lot.
cheers keith,my idea sounds possible then? i have a dx crank bolt ready to go in,just never got round to tackling it and suppose that time is now! im gonna be finding out if i can borrow a timing light of a m8 of a m8 soon. i may try to get a little video of the engine playing about if that would help? any other idea's advice appreciated,and thanks so far. i really am on the verge of selling it as ive just totally run out of money just servicing the feckin thing neil.
right,i can get hold of a timing light but the guy reckons it wont be that as the timing electronically adjusts. i still think it could be way too far advanced and when im flooring it the knock sensor is retarding the timing??? maybe and losing power? i dunno? anyway gonna check the static with a driver down no.1 plug hole etc and see what the crack is. and then check the ign timing. thanks,neil. >fingers crossed<
i you need a compression tester or anything give me a shout riley, i'll be more than happy to take a trip down tonight to give you a hand! i also have a timing light. let me know.
rick,thanks a lot m8,really appreciate it. got your text,but im so skint because of the car that i couldnt reply i can get hold of a timing light later on hopefully! ill let you know/keep this updated. copied from rado forum... right guys, things arent going well :mad: :mad: i went to check the cambelt timing,went to remove my wheel to turn the engine over with the crank and guess what? ive lost my locking wheel nut :mad: i feel like giving up. i thought fvck it and turned it with the cam ops: anyway,with the rotor pointing at no.1(the notch seems more like 12.0 clock?) the piston was at the top,the cam lined up as (see pic) is that right? 2 dots? but the bottom pully was off,the line was a little to the right of the arrow? the weird thing is,when i gave it another full turn,the bottom pully lined up? :? and the cam/dizzy lined up the same as before? :? please help,im seriously getting down with this... neil.
found the locking wheel nut [:^(] just trying to upload a video to yousendit.com,its 11.7mb... Edited by: riley
the mark on the cam pulley is on the inside of the pulley. so are you sure you're turning the cam and lining it up with the right mark. Only reason i ask is cause of the photo taken. (might be different on the G60) anyway. Give me a shout if you need a hand.
Anyluck riley? I would ring and see how you're getting on but i have a 82quid phone bill this month [:^(] in 5 days?!
well thanks for the help guys but ive had enough. copied from rado forum..... ive had enough. me and my dad looked at the timing again,discovered the cams were a tooth out,so sorted it,fired it up and it was just the fuckin same. then took it to a mates garage,checked the timing,said it looked good. told him about the possability of fucked crank pully,yeah maybe blah fuckin blah... said could also be a sticky valve or dead piston/rings... couldnt be arsed,so drove it back to the unit,and got the piece of shit sportline out again and drove it home with no insurance. can i be ar$ed ringing up and swapping insurance yet again? can i FUCK. heres a little vid of the pile of shit... sounds well eh?
oh,yesterday i was pre heating our new oven (used a few times by us) for a pizza,we were stood in the kitchen as it exploded and blew the glass out,all over the floor/hallway,sticking to the newly laid lino why am i even mentioning this?
