Richgit being trailored home...

What part of FULL PIC do you thick tw@ts not understand????? Not just the top bit at the back of the IC



what do they say about educating pork??

 

argh, well i dont have a pic ill pop out in a bit and take one.

Its pretty much the height of the IC and the length from the 2 top bits that you can see. Has anyone got a pic of a vr6 rad? Is it poss that it'd fit between my metal boost pipes?
Edited by: richgit

 

Mk4/SEAT 1.8t rads are about as long as that again and run twin fans, also have a low coolant sensor wired up and the bleed off pipe to headertank take off above the top of the rad so any air in the system automatically bleeds off into the headertank. All things the MK4 had but yours didnt Obviously VW over engineered the MK4 because there not needed

 

Motorhead, have you got pics of your rad? Whats it from? And what temps were you running on track and where did it show up on the stock gauge? 1/2 way / 3/4 way up?

mine was on 3/4, which is what matt told me was the normal running temp for a 20vt. It started to go above 3/4 and the temp light flashed... so we came off and then found the problemo.

 

Cant compare the two, Im running MK4 clocks and I take it your using MK2 + Ive no idea what temp sensors hes used. I dont have any pics on the laptop of my rad, they are on the pc and its away for a service ect.

 

there are many issues here....


as people have already said the Map, EGT, etc are all pretty critical, any faults with the DTA ecu could have also caused problems with the car running lean.


low water level would have caused a problem, as could an excess of coolant in the water mix.


coming in directly from a hot lap without doing a cooling down lap would also help heat soak the engine - the coolant temp would heat up rather than cool down when it was brought into the pits.


insufficient time idling in the pits after each session with the fan running would cause hot spots - especially important on a car with a turbo.


None of us know what the fault it, none of us know what caused it.


We also don't know the exact terms of sale under which the engine conversion was carried out - only what the current terms of sale are as posted on the website.



Remember that unsubstantiated derogatory comments about an individual or a company are not acceptable on this forum - one person's *opinion*, when stated as fact, could undeservedly harm the reputation of a company.




And recardo - if you are driving like that on the road you should not have a license - that's what track days are for, so that idiots like you don't kill people.

Also - if that's as high as your oil temp gets then you are not driving it as hard as people do on track.

 

You need to do a little winter project Rich.

Battery to boot.
Big rad (may have to get new passenger side boost pipe made).
Sort sensors.
New header tank.

 

I can hold my car at nearly 130mph on the motorway at part throttle, unlike the track where its either on or of - there is no in between.

doing a day at donny is the equivilent of 1000 road miles

you simply cannot replicate track driving on roads

ever worn out a brand new set of pads in 3 hours - ask badger bill

ever seen oil temps at over 150 degs - ask me and tub (i think)

ever had to pull into the pits cause your too tired to drive after 30 mins - ask me

The best place to test a car for strength and to find out any weakness is to use it on track.

hope it gets sorted soon tho rich - welcome to the slippery slope of track-days

 

looking at the pic the rad does look a bit on the small side,as said maybe a vr,abf or mk2 gtd rad will improve things

 

my td one is longer than that one, no idea if it is more efficent mind you !

 

pot kettle black

 

Didn't see how hard the car was being driven on track. but I was there when he pulled into the pits, steam pouring ouf of the bonnet gap, water boiling over out of the expansion tank.....and the fan wasn't running........I told rich straight away "get that fan on!! quick!!"

when I had my old mk2 vr the fan switch wasn't working. when I came off track (albeit a very short track) the temp gauge was almost at boiling point, and I had to manually kick the fan into top speed the instant I got out of the car.

That's probably what's cooked it. getting it up to heat on track, with a tiny radiator. then pulling off intot he pits, and having no air flow to clam the runaway collant temp. whoosh, spat it all out, air locks, bent head.

 

How do you turn the fan on exactly?

 

Recardo - lke me take you out around Donny mate, you really need your eyes opening..

Your car will never get the abuse it gets on a track on a road.

Track work seriously hurts cars - i've hit 160 degrees oil temp on track - no matter how hard you push your car on the road you will never do that - EVER.

Track work sees 20-30 minutes of constant load on the engine, brakes, suspension, bearing, bushes, chasis, clutch, gearbox etc...

In 1 hour of track work (spread over a day) you can EASILY take new tyres down to canvas, boil SRF racing brake fluid, destroy front and rear wheel bearings, wear very expensive pads and disks down to metal, warp brakes - the list is endless.

You can easily do 10,000 miles worth of wear in 100 miles!


Yes it is possible to drive cars very hard on the road - but the amount of load you can constantly keep on the car really doesn't compare in the slightest.

 

you pull the connector off the (faulty) fan switch and put it direct on the battery terminal.

or, if you're clever, you flick your fan override switch to the on position.........

 

An oil cooler for you Rich



He wedged a modified key ring between 2 terminals on his (faulty) fan switch to bypass it and run the fan constantly
Edited by: 1990

 

Was the lump rebuilt before being installed or was it second hand?

If its a second hand lump surely you can never be 100% sure whats happened to it before and theres always going to be an element of luck involved.

Its something thats always made me wary of big money conversions (still bloody tempting though)