Starting my car

My cars ready to start...

Should my car turn over with the fuel pump wire disconnected?

Why is the positive on my battery smoking?

And can you see the spark on the spark plug in day light, or is it too small too see? As I checked for spark with one of my plugs out but nothing.

It turns over so isnt ceased and all the rest of my electrics work after 5 months

When key is in the ignition should the ecu light up or anything? Or do I need to set it's port? on my laptop first.

 

Eeerrrrrm

I'd start here with with any changes!

 

Aint smoking no more.

Got to recheck my wiring to the dizzy though as it makes an awful clicking sound.

 

Is this how my dizzy would be.

3 pins:
pin 1 - = brown/white
pin 2 0 = grey/green
pin 3 + = red/black

If so it says take tach signal to -, but then doesnt show it being earthed?

It doesnt show it going through a hall sender just the tach signal going to the - on the dizzy. How does that work ?

 

Tach signal MS pin 24 to dizzy 0
TPS ref 5v to dizzy +
Earth on MS pin 7 to dizzy -

 

Surely a smoking battery terminal is a sign of a short which could have damaged wiring or the ECU?

 

Knowing my luck it probably has lol

Toyotech, thanks thats make sense now, how come your the only one whos said to take tps ref to the dizzy, thats how I was wired up in the first place as you said but a few people said to take it too the tps sensor as the diagram says, or does it go to both. ?

 

That would make sense as it's been sitting for a long time so is probably very dirty anyway!

Yer that does sound like a crappy design, I'll get on it.

If it did short my ecu wasnt connected anyway as the relay was all wrong!.

Cheers jonny

 

Still not firing up, just making the same fast clicking noise. fuel pump primes when fuel pump wires connected, it does when it's disconnected, so ecu must be getting a feed.

Why's it just clicking, then does nothing, then trys to turn over then clicks, could it be an open vacuum? or would it just turn and turn over and never start if it was a vacuum issue.

 

the battery sounds dead?

 

Yer think it is mate, it does work though, just looses charge quite quick.

Reason for not starting, red lead has somehow come off my starter motor! And the hole on the mani I had open, it needs to be blocked off! So kno reason it should start now! apart from the rain

 

New battery, stays on charge now though. Was checking the workings of the tci- h switch unti and hall sender. With the hall sender switch unplugged, putting my connectors on the + - of the bit where it plugs into ( is this the coil ) and didnt get the 2v for 2 secs then 0v as required, said I need a new tci-h switch unit and coil. I bought s5 ( blue spare wire) I think it was too the tci-h switch unit. Also the ecu vacuum, does that go from a separate vacuum that the servo one? Presuming it's all the same, it on one of the connectors on that black and yellow fitting.

 

Are these terminals what I would test to see if my coil is ok ? The 2v for a bit then drop to 0v. As when connectors are on the + and - there is no drop, which indicates a new coil and tci-h unit is needed.

 

MS pin 36 or 'S5' from the RSA loom, is connected to pin 6 on the TCI-h unit.

This triggers the TCI-h to earth the primary circuit in the coil.
ECU mpa sensor line can to source manifold pressure from the servo line.

You dizzy is missing the plastic connector that surrounds the hall pins?

 

I'll check the s5 again to see if it's in the right place. may of counted the wrong way and not seeing the numbers!

Yer I took that off lol Took it off so I knew I was touching the right parts. And ok got the vacuum hose there already.

Think it will be the s5 wire. No It's in the right place. It isnt the ecu as thats been tested and I have shorted anywhere either. So has to be the hall sender or dizzy.

 

your inbox is full mate !

 

Right, in that pic, those pins are the hall sender pins yes. I need to connect my voltmeter to the + and - of the igntion coil, but where is this as I cant see any other terminals. Got to see whether theres 2v then 0v after a few seconds, with the hall sender plug disconnected. Then if theres no then my ignition coil is broke.