With a vac leak, idle would usually be high, as more air is going in. You can adjust throttle stop if its an abf TB, undo the part that holds switch and adjust base idle. Its not the best way but holds the setting for a while. you need to get it running and warmed up so you can get idle fuelling right or smooth at least. Proper tuning needs a wideband and gauge, but at least its running.
Its cutting out straight away lol, if I take my foot off the accelerator, which is why I think it's vacuum related. Or can I still do what your saying? Yerp got my lc-1 ready to go! I'll have a closer look tomorrow at all my vacuums. What is a main reason a car cuts out straight away if let off of accelerator? That trcik you mentioned, does that hold the butterfly open more allowing more air and fuel in when starting up? As if it's underfuelling would it cut out?>
Because your throttle is basically closed when you lift off the pedal and you havent got an idle valve (i assume). Undo the torx screw on the throttle and adjust throttle stop. Whats your map reading with it idling at 1k? Shown in megatune/tunerstudio I made this for mine but ignoring the block with the screw part you should have the flat bit that is similar.
Lol, thought it went on the head, looking at an engine pic, it goes on the manifold.! Cant seem to find anything more to blank off. OK thanks Tshirt I'll have a look.
Right, I managed to keep the butterfly open at 1900rpm and it kept at 1900! Well chuffed now lol Bodged it the first time with an allen key lol So shall I load up the pc and see how low I can get it to rev out without cutting out and tell you the kpa's? Me and brother checked it and it cut out at around 900rpm, sounds fine at 1100 then going down starts to run a bit lumpy. Could it just need a bit more fuel on cold start up ? Haha, yer though it went somewhere else, saw two holes on the head and thought it went there. Runs fine now though, just gotta get it to not cut out.
you now need to link up the wide band and start tuning idle in the ve tables etc and get a lower rpm ... tuning your idle is the start of your whole tuning process! tommy
You need to first run the car, however you could to normal operating temp, then start tuning the tables from idle. From here you will progress to part and then fuel load tuning. Getting the idle right would be based on feel and some experience. The part load and full load must be done with mixture mesurement and perferably det cans. Once this iteration is successful and after a soak, you can start working on temp offsets to get cold start and pull away right. It does take a lot of time, but you will get there.
OK thanks, I'll get that sorted out soon. This is where the fun starts though, mechanical was driving me mad! I just thought up to 3500rpm map you gave me would get me driving straight away lol, but obviously it'd be pretty hard to set a perfect tune up for my engine.
The base map should allow you to drive, but you stiil need to adjust your hardware and set idle once coolant is over 71deg.
OK thanks, guessing I can drive it then to get it warmed up quicker and once over 70 degrees it should idle without a throttle stop ?
Not really. Id warm it up by keeping throttle open, and maybe adjusting fuel bin around idle on map to keep it going whilst watching temps. Laptop should be plugged in whilst doing this. once warm you adjust idle until smooth using throttle stop and fuel map. Some suggest adjusting req_fuel in engine constants to keep it going.
Just a quick one, as I'm not running an isv is it ok to permanently have the throttle stop adjusted to idle my car? I understand now that with no isv obviously no air will get into my manifold as why I need to open it up with a throttle stop. I have got an isv, not sure if it works though.