Starting my car

have you wired the injectors correctly, ,

ie pins 32/33 are injector banks 1, pins 34/35 are injector banks 2, you musnt split these banks ups tho, ie wire injectors pin 32 to 34 and use that as a pair . i cant remeber which each injector bank i put over the cylinders, tho

 

Compession can only be checked properly on a warm engine. Bank 1 should connect to inj1 and inj3 and bank 2 should be inj2 and inj4 IIRC

 

I may not of, I wired them as bank 1 , bank2, bank1, bank2. But after reading a pm, it should of gone bank1 bank2 bank 2 bank 1 on the abf plug. not sure if that goes in the same order over the cylinders though. On msextra the guy rekons it wouldn't stop my car from starting. Just run rough. I'm going to get a compression kit just in case compression is down.

Oh can it lol theres spark and fuel and it's timed, so why wouldn't it start ? not rich enough, or injectors not spraying enough out, blocked a bit?

 

Dont understand your bank explanations. Bank 1 is for injectors 1 and 3. bank 2 for injectors 2 and 4.

it could be your engine constant settings. Whats your req fuel. I assume you have a base map. Is you dizzy timing right? you ar using a 9A engine, right?

 

erm, when wiring up the injectors I asked the question which wires on the abf fuel rail do I wire up to. And the answer I got was ..the plug goes, from left to right. Live, inj1,inj2, inj2,inj1 but I've gone, live, inj1,inj2,inj1,inj2 which if it correct, bank one will go to cyl 1+3 and bank 2 to 2+4. At the minute mine isnt wired to how the person said, and he's got an abf which is working, so it must be needed to wire up how he said, I'll ask him again though to make sure. If that make senses lol As how are you supposed to know what wire goes to what injector, I'd of thought it would be in order of cylinders which if it is, mine are wired in correctly. but if it goes cyl 1,2,4,3 then mine is wrong.

Toyotech tried it on his car and it worked. Yes it's got a base map till 3400rpm and yer on 9A.

I'm going to buy a timing light to see if it the spark timing is right.

 

That is right how you have it.. Firing order is 1,3,4,2. Is your dizzy timing right?

 

you may need to change cranking pulsewidths to see if it changes anything.

 

I'll check that tomorrow, when I timed it up, I looked at it quickly and saw it was right where lead one is and didn't adjust it. Could it need adjusting do you rekon? My mechanic did retard my timing.

Ok thanks for your help, I'll do what you said, then get back once done.

 

Yea could need adjusting. May need to get someone to turn it whilst cranking or use a timing light.

 

Think'll invest in a timing light, only bout 15 on the bay anyway. Appreciate your help, thanks.

 

On my tunerstudio it says timing is at 11.2 btcd, but after reading some of the manual, it says that this has to be matched to the actual timing of my dizzy, so is that why my engine's not starting, say if my dizzy is at 8btcd but the ecu thinks it's at 11.2?

 

So it will fire at the wrong time. This could be part of the problem along with dizzy timing. I'm unsure of settings for a dizzy as i use a 60-2 wheel.

There is instructions in the extra manuals on how to setup the hall sensor/dizzy.

What setting is at 11.2deg? cranking angle?

 

Ok thanks, on the spark advanced dial it says 11.2 btdc.

My dizzy hasn't got a mark on the housing like in the static timing thread, Mines turned clockwise as much as it can go

A mate came round who used to be a mechanic and we was fiddling with the dizzy, leaving it loose, then me cranking it and him moving it around trying to get it too start, but it still didn't. Does this mean I have to change some settings on the ecu ? As said above, about the pulsewidths? what should it be a second, as I can see that on the gauge cluster.

 

I think that far clockwise is advancing the ignition quite a bit. it needs to line up with no1 plug lead at least to get it close.

 

Ok, as I havn't got a notch, should I mark where lead one is on the dizzy, then line my rotar arm to that. I didn't see how far my mate was turning the dizzy each time, but it still wasn't starting.

The ht leads where wrong!! Think I remember how they'be become wrong, when changing my dizzy cap, I swapped them one at a time, but with my new dizzy cap I have to turn it 90 degrees it get it on, I'm a donut. But the dizzy was way out anyway. So think it could have been just the coil needed replacing in the end.

But my luck, my battery is showing 11.5v and starter motor is clicking, so couldn't check it!

 

Well looks like all my car needed in the end was a new coil and thats it!! Put ht leads the right way round and car starts, but only if I keep it revved up. I'm thinking vacuum leak? Or what else to do with MS can cause it to cut out straight away? Oh and my exhaust to downpipe is not full connected, but didnt think that'd matter.

Would the hole where the 5th injector used to be be under vacuum.

Also when revving to keep engine going it sounds like it is running on 3cylinder's, this is a fuelling issue isnt it? one blocked injector maybe? it did start up fine, but maybe as the fuel has gone round an injector has got blocked?

 

have you an idling screw at all ? you could be mis -firing, if you changed all the timing ect,

 

Don't think I do, I'll have to have a look, if an abf tb does then I will have, and I'll fiddle with that. As in ignition timing? Atm, my dizzy is lined up directly to ht lead one. And the rest is all lined up, I'll look to see if the diamond is lined up with the gearbox housing. Also a mates got a timing gun so I'll use that to see if it's correct, should be near 10btdc shouldn't it?

 

you need to block up every single hole in the inlet any vacume leaks will give a false reading to the map in the ms possibly causing it to run rich fouling plug and running like a bag of sh*t



all sensors reading ok cts iat ...etc ?

 

I'll have a close look on the inlet tomorrow, I think I have blocked them all off, I haven't checked my central locking in the back for ages, maybe it's open down there, but would of thought my car would still idle ? I've blocked off one 10mm nipple 2 3mm nipples and put a bung on the front of my manifold. Could I look at the amount of kpa's it's getting when it first starts up?

I'm going to get my injectors out and bridge the relay to get it to squirt some fuel out to see if theres a blocked up one.

Yes all sensor look fine. I'll do them checks and get back if it doesn't idle.