Starting my car

TCIH and coil are fine. Need another set of hands to check the hall sender, how do I manually crank the engine. Thinking it's where the belts are etc under the plastic cover, but what nut and what size nut is it. The step by step says to manually crank engine whilst having the centre lead on the dizzy earthed whilst checking voltage across pin 6 and of of the tcih, I havnt got nothing in pin 3!

 

I took my king pin off the dizzy and grounded it against my engine, had my mum turn the ignition and no spark was visible. Test I done the coil was have hall sender unplugged, with connectors on the + and - of coil whilst someone cranked it, looked for a rise in volt then drop back down and get that result. Is the main king pin broke? Also I am getting a 12v across the coil, but no spark from the king lead.

 

Got spark from it when put the king lead on the head earthing points, not sure if that was the ht lead making a spark or just metal on metal sparking, it nearly blew me off my feet somehow, was holding the rubber bit and touching nothing else!

Tried again after that and it did make a few explosions, but smoke was puffing out from the induction kit.? Could I spray some of that fuel stuff stuff in the intake to test if I'm getting fuel or not.

 

Bought a new coil, still no spark from king lead, or actually in my coil ( putting a screwdriver in it)
Picture of wiring , should there be something on that + connector. Blue wire is red and black further down.

 

Hope that has nothing to do with the MS ECU...

 

Dunno, where that blue goes too, about 100mm down it connects onto another red and black cable, so has obviously been repaired at one point. Ihavn't touched the coil wiring, just swapped it back to how it was on the old one. I just put my connectors on + AND - to get 12v, it got volts but then heard a crackle and it went down to zero, didnt crank it when testing the voltage.

Toyotech, you hope I have haven't put wires to the coil, or maybe the ecu's gone?

 

Done that, thing that is weird, is that I have just connected the king lead back on the cap, and when starting it pops sometimes, then when I turn cranking off, it pops again just after the engines stopped. Could my timing on the dizzy cap be well out or something? I haven't touched anything engine wise.

I must be getting spark to get some sort of popping. But I cant see it!

 

When a cylinder is fully compressed should the rotor arm being at that lead. If so then I think my timings out 180 degrees, I;ve got my cylinder one raised to the max but rotor arm is point to the opposite side. How would it do that when I havn't touched the ignition!

Also when turning the engine by hand some of it is stiffer then a part is really smooth and easily turned. I'm guessing rust has formed.

Just checked 16v timing guide and it is 180 out somehow, is it simple enough to turn it back to where it should be.?

 

Yep that's simple there is a guide somewhere here..

When stiffer is when you are on the compression stroke.nothing to worry about unless you are jumping on the tool to turn the engine

 

Cheers mate, lol nah not that hard just had to use most of my strength, spose it was a crappy angle though!

Yer I've looked at the static timing one, but doesnt show you how to change it if the timing is out. Loosen off cambelt then fiddle with then ? Or just turn the dizzy around to where it should be.

 

if you get the engine to TDC pop the cap off and see which plug lead the rotor arm is pointing to it should be number 1 if it isnt then move the leads around until it does thats how i used to figure stuff like that out on the old 8v engines is yours 16v or 8v?

 

Mines a 16v mate 9A, atm the rotor arms 180 degrees from lead 1, so could I just move the leads around, then see if starts, if so move them back round and do the timing properly?

 

The rotor should point to #1 and the hall 3 pin connection should be at ~6 o'clock. If this is not so then assuming the engine's cam to crank timing is correct, then you have the plug leads in the wrong location. This is just an opinion though based on the issues you described.

 

My timing seems to be stuffed then if that is the case! hall sender at about 8.30 there and that rotor arm is with cylinder one fully compressed, so thats 180 degrees off. When I changed my rocker gasket I wandered why my cam markings would'nt line up, when following them around, they would off been like 15 degrees off. I havn't touched my engine at all, only took leads out when changing dizzy cap but done one at time so they wouldnt change from how they were. I'll get the rocker cover off tomorrow and check if it's all timed up anyway. My mechanic fiddled with the timing saying it was pinking and he said he timed it back up again.

 

Rocker cover off, everything is near enough 180 degrees off. How do I spin it round 180 degrees? I have got pics if needed but it's obvious to me its 180 degrees out.

 

hey mate ,

look at the stickys im sure there is a workshop manual this should help (if its same as abf for timing etc)

 

Cheers pal, I've been told how to do it, doesnt sound like I need to remove cam shafts and reposition them which is good!. Just going to get gearbox flywheel at tdc with cyl 1, then remove cam pulley and turn camshafts till they line up facing each other at 3'oclock and just as per the stickys said, just wasnt sure on how I would go about changing the timing. But giving it go in a bit!

May not be out of timing, may just need spinning over 360 degrees again, as apparently they go round at 2:1 ? so 720 degrees is need when turning the engine over by hand to stop it going 180 degrees out.