Starting my car

OK sweet cheers.

 

Trying to set the lamda settings on the lc-1 settings but it wont let me, all it lets me change is the input name ! Atm it's on 7afr = 0v 22 = 5v. Just changed my plugs and tried starting my car and it isnt starting just starting very horribly then cuts out, afr said 18 afr but I dont know if thats right or not? If so then obvioulsy its running mega lean, but it did start and idle when I last checked.

I am going get my mates spark gun again to check timing too as I think I have touched the dizzy. But more importantly atm how do I set the settings as it wont let me?

 

This is what my car sounds like with a spanner acting as a throttle stop so about of 7mm of throttle plus the throttle stop adjustment. After that I took my new plugs and was already slighty black, but it came off quite easily. Is it just running rich so needs all that throttle to lean it out enough to run. First time I started it sounded perfect, so don't think it's my map (why my engine sounds like it does)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-gvyF-5S7k

 

Use lambda settings on lm programmer. 0v= 0.5 5v=1.5 lambda.

Have you free air calibrated it?

 

map sensor connected? all temp sensors reading correct?

if so its just a case of tuning your constants and idle etc

 

You having trouble with the camera? Put some shoes on ! Lol

 

Haha! I didnt watch it through, must of forgot to turn the camera off! You'll never find me in shoes round the house

YErp all vacuums connected map sensor etc, yer all sensors are fine, does it sound ok then, doesnt sound like its misfire or anything, just a case of tuning it now ?

Yer I've held it for 30 secs and that, think my exhaust may still be leaking though drawing in air as too why my afr was so lean! The leak is literally 2 inch from the lambda, it's only a quickfix though as need to get a different joiner on my exhaust welded on.

 

Doesn't sound very smooth to me. Sort the leak in the exhaust and check AFR's again. Also timing if its been moved. you may need a better solution to get base idle right rather than a spanner that you may have lost.

 

lol Yer dunno where that went! Only did that as I did do what you said and adjusted the throttle stop, but it has to be out way further!

I checked timing straight after I started it, everything was spot on apart from the flywheel mark.. I couldnt see the diamond bit but the dot next it was lined up with the gearbox casing ( Or what looked like a dot) . When I had that mare with the timing I could see the diamond and circle when at tdc. Could that of moved and nothing else?

I have been turning the front wheels but that wouldn't put it out would it?

I haven't done anything else to it since it started perfectly, but now it's running like a dog lol

 

Remember temperatures are different and you are starting and running the car from different areas on the warmup bins. What TB doyou have?
You will have to have it open quite a bit to get it idling. Then let it get up to temp and then get idle smooth using VE table . Once it's idling warm. You then ONLY adjust warmup/crank/afterstart to get it starting right from cold. And not the VE table.

 

AHHH ok thanks mate, I've got the abf TB, yer spose it's been boiling lately hasn't it, was probably 10 degrees colder when I last started it.

It might just sound rough as it might be only 800rpm or something, I'll open it right up tomorrow then then let down to 1000 rpm so I can tune idle once warm.

 

Undo the throttle stop screw and turn it until it idles around a 1000rpm and tighten it up. Get it up to temp, adjust fuel and throttle stop until it's smooth and idling around 950 - 1000rpm. Try and get it idling at 13.2afr when warm to start with.

 

Thanks mate, I'll get that done then follow that link you gave me, I've already it 3x ! I should be ok once the idle and start up done as it isn't that the hardest part. Then fill up the tables to 7200rpm then take it too the dyno! I made that sound easy

 

Yea you did. You can never read enough on it though. Idle is the tricky part to get it smooth in all situations.

 

Right again with trying to set lamda, it's at 0.5= 0v and 1.523= 5v atm, I cannot change this, it is just faded so cant change it! I just started my car up, it was reading 20afr! on warm up and I didnt want to warm it up being this lean, I have just smothered my exhaust is more compound as maybe that was letting air in. Would lambda being 1.523 to 5v and not 1.5 cause any problems?

 

In the settings there is a tick box saying use lambda. Tick this.

 

1.523 is close enough. But something isn't right with fueling or exhaust leaks.

 

How does it run on that fueling. Add fuel on VE table Or warmup bins to see if it changes.

 

Ok, when I started it back in April, coolant was at about 20 degrees, now its at 30 degrees so could the warm up bins be out for 30 degrees?

It runs like in that video, really lumping but at about 1200rpm. I'm going to print off that link you gave me so I can read it when in front of my laptop as I know it says about increasing the required fuel for when doing idle and then changing it back when your doing the ve table. First thing though I'm going to get a connector that fits on my downpipe to eliminate false readings.

Just reading that extra tuning basic and it gives you a good base model for the warm up bins, at 27 c mines at 160% but on the tuning guide it says 24 c at 120% Could I be running mega rich ?

 

160% is far to rich, reduce this down. Have you looked at your plugs to see what they say?