Starting my car

Yer I thought that after seeing the recommended bins lol Yes they got slightly black after a few seconds !! So knew it was running rich anyway but thought that was just for safety till I lean it out.

 

Heres how my engine is behaving. AFR is still dodgy, sealed up a little hole that but still reads this high? What is my map sensor reading like. Anything else look odd - Tshirt2k thats with all the changes you told me to do minus spark to 14 at idle rpm range.

Both my lc1 programmer and tuner studio are reading 21.99.

Oh and I stink of fuel, is that normal or is that a sign of running lean or rich ?, had a stinking head ache from last night anyway lol

 

Its running very rich according to the air fuel gauge. lean it off on the warmup bins a bit. its reading under 11.

its nearly to temp so keep it running until its out of warmup. above 71deg.

 

You need to warm the engine to ~90-100 deg C and then start adjusting the base fuel tables.

Once this is correct at nominal temperature and the cars run ok, you should wait for a soak to bring all temps back down to the ambients and then proceed to calibrate the cold start and pull away.
Adjust thing without a mature base map is simply wasting your time.

 

He's got your base map. Warmup bins were very high numbers.

 

Its a base map not a mature calibration...
What I said still holds true.

 

If it can be interpreted...

 

Getting impatient now!!! Summers almost over lol And nearly a year since I got my ecu from toytech !

In my impatientness I just whacked a load of exhaust putty on the joint, it was leaking the tiniest amount after this and closed up with more putty, can feel a tiny bit now. Loaded up lm programmer, all settings are fine, both set to what I've been told, but on the other lm programme the afr guage is still reading around about 21! But I know its rich as one it nearly killed me, and the map is very rich anywhere for safety. All the wiring is fine. Ive got a new downpipe on the way to fit properly to the exhaust, but surely having the tiniest leak wouldnt make a rich map read at 21 afr? Should I just wait till Ive got the downpipe lol

 

Don't think you have the gauge in Tunerstudio set up right.

 

it's on both innovates software and on tuner studio. I must not have, ill have a look on it see if I can find anything obvious,

Just on tunerstudio and can't anything I could change. Can you set it then ?

Just looked at one of your pms Russ and you said my tuner studio gauage may not be right. How do I change it? ive tried right clicking it.

 

Just done a datalog on it, and I cant see anything about afr's on there. Also once off of warmed up, do I just use adjust where the green dot is and the squares around it in the fuel and spark table, to get a decent idle, I can get it at 950rpm when past 70 degrees. Then for a cold idle do I use warm up bins to get a stable idle?

 

am i right that the brown wire from the lc-1 goes to MS ecu,yellow to gauge, so ur ecu is getting wideband reading,then you adjust the same wideband setting on lm-1 , yellow wire to gauge reads the same settings as the brown ? thats what i dont

as for warmup, get an idle via the trottle stop then adjust the fuel on a cold engine, start rich and ramp it down to lean, by this point it should of come out of warmup mode and idle at 14.7 ,thats what i have,some people say you can lean it further on idle as its just vaccum,,no boost

 

OK cheers mate, I'll check that out. Yer I've read like 16:1. I still havn't got a gauge, needs to get one really. Just all the time it shows 22afr or 4.7v out of the analogue wire, so I cant do nothing untill it's sorted, driving me up the wall!

I'm just on my computer on a practise map filling the rest of my map up. From the base map I have got I am just increasing it slightly as the rpm increase on each bin. As I go up the boxes change colour, when they go red is that to say it will run very rich. I dont think it does as sometimes the whole table changes colour when one box is changed. I've read the manual that tshirt gave me and the megamanual one. Megamanual explains how to fill up the ve table which I've done to what I interpreted.

 

Are you using megalog viewer? Have You selcted the wideband in calculated fields?

Afr(wbo2) should be shown in the log with the key shown on the left if you have it connected to your ms correctly.

 

Right, I had to find that wb02 , wasnt in the menu bit. But i found it anyway, it says it's just around 21afr when idling. Then when I opened the throttle it jumps about, to like 18afr, then at 2500rpm it went right down to 14afr, but then a little while later when it went to around 2500rpm again it was at like 20 afr. And it is all like that, then when back to idle it is on 21afr.

I did read that if the wideband is too far from the head that it cannot read when idling as it isn't hot enough?

 

No. That's not right. It has it's own heater. That means it's working if it's changing. Need to increase VE around idle a touch maybe. Have you checked all connections and have no leaks in the exhaust?

Is the wideband led on? Need to do some faultfinding. If you have run the engine without the power on to the sensor. You could have damaged it.

Looks like you're getting nowhere fast. It's been like this for months and you haven't moved on.

 

OK I'll check all over for leaks again, as if its gone to 14 afr then obviously it's working . Yer it isn't the quickest ms install ever lol I'm not getting down or put off by it or nothing as tbh I only work on it on the weekends, not like I'm out every single night working on it till late getting worked up. And I looked and insures want 1500 and thats for just a 1.8 16v! So when I'm 21 I'll get classic insurance and declare my mods etc which is in October. Bit more than I can chew tbh...

I'm going to rip out my downpipe and just buy a decat for this mk3 downpipe I got, at 60 I'm looking for a second one, but cant find one.

Yes the led has always been on since I wired it up. Tbh I rekon it's leaking still, maybe manifold gasket closest to engine where I cant get my hand. I'll stay low for a bit and come back once I've changed the downpipe etc then re tested and calibrated it again

Cheers.

 

i found out with Tuner studio that my warm up bins were all over the place, ie the program gave me a graph to look at instead of numbers, the graph helped alot,cos it showed spikes towards then end of the warm up, making it rich when it should be lean, you can adjust the graph by making straight line ramping down, this helped loads and then save it as msq file, go back to MS re-open file and just tweek from MS if needed

 

Thanks mate, I'll check it out when my sensor's reading properly. I have got a graph that is smooth with numbers to the left to increase and decrease fuel? My mk3 downpipe is on now, the gasket had soot on where obviously a bolt wasn't done enough, so leaking there. New ones on and done up out of place so if that leaks, then I need to go up the gym! Bidding on a cat bypass now, so hopefully I'll get a reading before I go on holiday.

 

What are the advantages of having larger injectors than the abf ones I've got?